Castle of Milandes

The Castle of Milandes, located in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle in the Dordogne region of southwestern France, stands as a magnificent example of late medieval architecture with strong Renaissance influences. Built in the late 15th century by the noble Caumont family, it served as their principal residence until the upheavals of the French Revolution. The castle is renowned not only for its architectural beauty but also for its rich history and its connection to the iconic Josephine Baker, who owned and restored the castle in the 20th century.

Architectural features and design

The Castle of Milandes is a hill castle strategically perched about 50 meters above the left bank of the Dordogne River, overlooking the picturesque valley below. Its design reflects a blend of medieval defensive elements softened by Renaissance aesthetics, making it both a fortress and a comfortable noble residence. The main building features a square keep on the south side and two round towers with turreted spiral staircases, characteristic of the period's military architecture.

The northern facade retains much of its original late 15th-century appearance, including stone mullioned windows with stained glass that were added at the behest of Claude de Cardaillac, wife of François de Caumont. These windows brighten the interior and add an elegant touch to the otherwise robust stonework. The castle is also adorned with turrets, gargoyles, and battlements that enhance its romantic and defensive character.

The southern facade was extensively remodeled in the early 20th century during restoration efforts by industrialist Charles-Auguste Delbret-Claverie, who introduced neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance elements. These additions include new towers, lodgings, balconies, and balustrades decorated with allegorical sculptures, blending historical styles with early modern tastes.

The castle chapel, built in 1503, is a notable feature within the estate. It contains a crypt and 16th-century frescoes, including a large depiction of Saint Christopher. Originally excluded from the estate due to a cadastral error, the chapel was reintegrated in the 21st century. Following the Caumont family's conversion to Protestantism, the chapel was adapted for Protestant worship, reflecting the religious shifts of the era.

Historical context and ownership

The Castle of Milandes was commissioned by François de Caumont, Count of Castelnaud, around 1489 as a more comfortable and romantic residence compared to the older, more austere Castle of Castelnaud. François built Milandes primarily for his wife, Claude de Cardaillac, incorporating features that emphasized comfort and aesthetic appeal, such as large windows overlooking the valley and elegant interior spaces.

During the turbulent French Wars of Religion in the 16th century, the Caumont family, who had converted to Protestantism, maintained control of the castle despite the widespread conflict. Their religious affiliation influenced modifications to the castle, including the chapel's conversion to a Protestant temple.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the castle remained in the Caumont family until the French Revolution forced its abandonment. The castle was sold in the 19th century but fell into neglect and suffered a damaging fire around 1900.

The early 20th century saw a revival under the ownership of Charles-Auguste Delbret-Claverie, a French industrialist who undertook extensive restoration work. Architect Henri Lafillée led these efforts, introducing neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance styles, adding new structural elements and restoring the castle's grandeur. A formal French garden was designed by Jules Vacherot in 1908, complementing the castle's architecture and enhancing its setting.

Josephine baker's era and legacy

From 1937, the castle gained international fame when it was rented and later purchased in 1947 by Joséphine Baker, the celebrated American-born French singer, dancer, and civil rights activist. Baker and her husband Jo Bouillon modernized the castle by installing running water, electricity, and central heating, making it a comfortable home for their family.

Baker created an avant-garde tourist complex on the estate known as the Village du Monde, which included a hotel, bar-restaurant, performance hall, wax museum, bowling alley, mini-golf, tennis courts, and a swimming pool. This ambitious project reflected her vision of cultural exchange and celebration of diversity.

She adopted twelve children of various nationalities, whom she called her "rainbow tribe," living at Milandes with them and fostering a unique family environment. The castle's interiors from this period feature art deco elements, especially in the bedrooms and bathrooms, reflecting the style of the 1930s and 1950s.

Financial difficulties eventually forced Baker to sell the castle in the 1960s, and she was controversially evicted in 1969. Despite this, her legacy remains a significant part of the castle's history, and an exhibition dedicated to her life and work is now part of the visitor experience.

Restoration and present-day status

Since the 1960s, the Castle of Milandes has changed ownership several times. It was listed as a historic monument in stages, with terraces, facades, and roofs protected since 1986, and the entire estate including the winery, gardens, and stables added in 2009. The current owners, Henry and Claude de Labarre, have overseen ongoing restoration efforts, managed by their daughter Angélique de Saint-Exupéry.

The castle today is a popular tourist destination, admired for its harmonious combination of medieval and Renaissance architecture, neo-Gothic restoration elements, and its cultural significance linked to Joséphine Baker. The extensive gardens, terraces, and the winery add to the estate's charm.

From April to October, visitors can enjoy a renowned falconry and birds of prey show held on the castle grounds, which draws many enthusiasts of medieval traditions and wildlife. Inside, the castle houses a collection of Joséphine Baker memorabilia, including furniture, stage costumes, and honors, providing a unique glimpse into the life of this extraordinary woman.

The castle in its regional context

The Castle of Milandes is situated near the famous Castle of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, a medieval fortress built in the late 12th century and renowned for its military architecture and museum of medieval warfare. Together, these castles represent the rich feudal and cultural history of the Dordogne valley, a region known for its concentration of historic castles and picturesque landscapes.

While Castelnaud was primarily a defensive stronghold, Milandes was designed as a more comfortable noble residence, reflecting the evolution of castle architecture from purely military to residential and aesthetic purposes during the Renaissance.

Visitor experience and attractions

Visitors to the Castle of Milandes can explore the beautifully restored interiors, including the turrets, gargoyles, and stained glass windows. The formal gardens and terraces offer stunning views of the Dordogne valley. The falconry shows provide engaging entertainment that connects visitors to medieval traditions.

The exhibition dedicated to Joséphine Baker offers insight into her life, her artistic career, and her humanitarian efforts, making the castle a cultural as well as historical destination.

Architectural significance

The Castle of Milandes exemplifies the transition from fortified medieval castles to Renaissance chateaux that emphasize comfort, light, and beauty. Its combination of defensive features such as towers and battlements with elegant stained glass windows and decorative elements illustrates the changing tastes and social functions of castles in late 15th and early 16th-century France.

The early 20th-century restorations introduced neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance styles, which are significant for understanding the historic preservation movement in France and the romantic revival of medieval architecture during that period.